just a little somethin' somethin' that made me super happy and kind of tear up a bit (i'm sure you did too, momma!) judge me if you will :)
updates of Rome, Livorno, Cinque Terre, and Budapest to come!
Wednesday, March 24
Sunday, March 7
amoRoma is a palindrome. (part one)
Am currently in love with Roma. This past weekend we excursed to this big beautiful city about 4 hours south of Firenze and it was so much more amazing than I anticipated. As we entered the city, driving down the busy streets, we looked over and one by one, noticed the streets lined with orange trees, actual orange trees. This was when I realized my love for Roma. The various districts of the city are all very different and have unique characteristics that seem familiar although I’ve never been here before. A recurring theme in Italy is the anti-climatic stumble into the most incredible monuments of history. You expect them to be in some preserved, well-marked bubble when in fact, you just turn a corner and BAM! you just tripped over the Pantheon. And as you stand there, trying to picture it as the awe-inspiring, beautiful block of cement it appears as in photos, it never happens. Yes, it is beautiful and wildly interesting, but when you see these world-famous buildings how they were meant to be, functional pieces of every day life, they develop a whole different sort of magic.
On that note, what did I see? We started the weekend on walking tour and ventured through the city, stopping at the quintessential “Roman Holiday” sights. We strolled into the Piazza di Spagna (a.k.a. the Spanish Steps) and learned that this area is one of the most rich in the city and the fountain in front of the famous stairs is one of many “water fountains” in Rome – they are beautiful fountains with sculptures on the street and yet, you can drink from almost any one of them. And the water tastes phenomenal. Then we walked along through the winding streets, snapping photos here and there until we came across the Trevi Fountain. It is a beautiful giant sculpted fountain where people come from all over the world to make one of three wishes, one coin to come back to Rome, two coins to find love in Rome, and three coins to ensure marriage. According to wikipedia, about 3000 euro ($4500) are thrown into the fountain every day and it’s used to “subsidize a supermarket for Rome’s needy.” Pretty cool, Rome. Then as described above, we walked around a corner and were faced with the Pantheon. Even with the warning from our tour guide, Fabrizio, when seeing the Pantheon in person, I was startled and confused. The ancient building is in the middle of a piazza, surrounded by everyday life, Italians walk by without stopping while the rest of us stand dumbfounded, facing the real-life photo in our history books. That might not make sense unless you’ve experienced the bizarre feeling that these monuments are actually normal buildings.
After our guided walking tour, we checked into our hotel and acclimated to the culture by taking a siesta. Jessica and I went to explore the Jewish Ghetto district in Rome, a very historic and culturally rich part of the city. We walked around the streets, stopped off for a pastry and stumbled upon some ruins (again, no big deal here). We walked through the area of crumbling buildings and I thought about how little evidence of history we keep in the United States. Historic buildings are neglected and eventually torn down and replaced by something shinier. This might be part of why coming to Europe is such a beautiful experience for Americans; living and breathing history books surround us for the first time. Here is what Rick Steves (we’re tight) has to say about these ruins:
After quite a bit of discouragement from our friends, Jess and I ventured out to find the Trevi Fountain at night and to toss in our coins. As we walked through the streets, encountered beautiful statues and crowds of Scottish men in kilts (yes, I’m serious. There were an obscene amount of Scots everywhere in Rome due to the International Rugby Tournament going on that weekend. Every single one was in a kilt.), I fell even more in love with Rome. Only asking for directions once, we made it to the fountain and made wishes to return to Roma. We took some posed photos and walked to in the direction of the Campo di Fiori – Flower Market during the day and giant bar-hopping outdoor square at night. Although, be careful not to stumble into the next Piazza because the French Embassy will not hesitate to call the cops if you speak above whisper. Jessica’s friend studies in Rome, so the two of us met up with her and two of her friends. The five of us consisted of Jess, Jess, Jess, Jenny and Martha, pretty great. We walked over to Trastevere and got some drinks at a few bars here and there. We visited the oldest bar in Rome, I got gelato and it was delicious. The Trastevere is an interesting area full of young and older people a like, especially at night; hanging out in small groups, flooding out of bars to take smoke breaks, and wandering through the small characteristic bars that litter the streets. After wandering to and fro, Jess and I called it a night and recapped how beautiful, funky, and cool Rome is.
On that note, what did I see? We started the weekend on walking tour and ventured through the city, stopping at the quintessential “Roman Holiday” sights. We strolled into the Piazza di Spagna (a.k.a. the Spanish Steps) and learned that this area is one of the most rich in the city and the fountain in front of the famous stairs is one of many “water fountains” in Rome – they are beautiful fountains with sculptures on the street and yet, you can drink from almost any one of them. And the water tastes phenomenal. Then we walked along through the winding streets, snapping photos here and there until we came across the Trevi Fountain. It is a beautiful giant sculpted fountain where people come from all over the world to make one of three wishes, one coin to come back to Rome, two coins to find love in Rome, and three coins to ensure marriage. According to wikipedia, about 3000 euro ($4500) are thrown into the fountain every day and it’s used to “subsidize a supermarket for Rome’s needy.” Pretty cool, Rome. Then as described above, we walked around a corner and were faced with the Pantheon. Even with the warning from our tour guide, Fabrizio, when seeing the Pantheon in person, I was startled and confused. The ancient building is in the middle of a piazza, surrounded by everyday life, Italians walk by without stopping while the rest of us stand dumbfounded, facing the real-life photo in our history books. That might not make sense unless you’ve experienced the bizarre feeling that these monuments are actually normal buildings.
After our guided walking tour, we checked into our hotel and acclimated to the culture by taking a siesta. Jessica and I went to explore the Jewish Ghetto district in Rome, a very historic and culturally rich part of the city. We walked around the streets, stopped off for a pastry and stumbled upon some ruins (again, no big deal here). We walked through the area of crumbling buildings and I thought about how little evidence of history we keep in the United States. Historic buildings are neglected and eventually torn down and replaced by something shinier. This might be part of why coming to Europe is such a beautiful experience for Americans; living and breathing history books surround us for the first time. Here is what Rick Steves (we’re tight) has to say about these ruins:
The two of us explored the city some more and eventually wandered back in the direction of our hotel to shower and get ready for the night. Rome is famous for Fresh Seafood Fridays. Friday is the time to get frutta di mare (seafruit a.k.a. seafood) in Rome, so of course that’s what we did! Brooke, Hattie, Jess and I were recommended to go to Gildo, a cute family ristorante in the Trastevere, the region across the river from the main Roman attractions. Upon walking in, we were greeted by the smell of a giant wood-burning stove. The best part about eating out in Italy is the relaxed atmosphere. It is expected for the table to eat, drink and talk for as long as desired. I still find it incredible to enjoy your food slowly, drink a liter of wine (shared of course), and just relax in a calm atmosphere. This usually ends in us planning to eat gelato somewhere by the end of our time in the restaurant. Not surprising, I’m sure!“This monumental gateway — with columns supporting a triangular pediment — was built by soon-to-be emperor Augustus. Once flanked by temples and libraries, the passageway served as a kind of cultural center. After Rome's fall, the portico housed a thriving fish market. In the eighth century, the Portico became incorporated into the Church of Sant'Angelo in Pescheria. For centuries, this Christian church was packed every Saturday with Jews — forced by decree to listen to Christian sermons.”
After quite a bit of discouragement from our friends, Jess and I ventured out to find the Trevi Fountain at night and to toss in our coins. As we walked through the streets, encountered beautiful statues and crowds of Scottish men in kilts (yes, I’m serious. There were an obscene amount of Scots everywhere in Rome due to the International Rugby Tournament going on that weekend. Every single one was in a kilt.), I fell even more in love with Rome. Only asking for directions once, we made it to the fountain and made wishes to return to Roma. We took some posed photos and walked to in the direction of the Campo di Fiori – Flower Market during the day and giant bar-hopping outdoor square at night. Although, be careful not to stumble into the next Piazza because the French Embassy will not hesitate to call the cops if you speak above whisper. Jessica’s friend studies in Rome, so the two of us met up with her and two of her friends. The five of us consisted of Jess, Jess, Jess, Jenny and Martha, pretty great. We walked over to Trastevere and got some drinks at a few bars here and there. We visited the oldest bar in Rome, I got gelato and it was delicious. The Trastevere is an interesting area full of young and older people a like, especially at night; hanging out in small groups, flooding out of bars to take smoke breaks, and wandering through the small characteristic bars that litter the streets. After wandering to and fro, Jess and I called it a night and recapped how beautiful, funky, and cool Rome is.
Thursday, February 18
In Firenze,
the air is fresh from rainfall the night before, the sun is bright from behind the beautifully ominous clouds, and as I stroll through the streets in no particular hurry, I cannot help but smile at the joy I have found in living here. It is merely four months, so it is imperative to embrace all opportunities, avoid backward glances and live in the moment instead of letting the future get in the way. I constantly think about the day when the people who know and love me most will walk these same streets with me and truly understand the indescribable beauty that is Florence.
Wednesday, February 17
feeling homesick...
but not for my official home in Durham, NC or some of my temporary homes in Boone or Pittsboro, I am feeling homesick for Grayson Highlands State Park (photos). As I sat perusing my dad's blog I could not help but feel a pang of longing for those lush grassy fields dotted with dark green rhododendron bushes the size of full grown oaks. I long for the steep hikes littered with fresh mountain blueberries followed by scrambles up a rock face in order to see miles of precious, cared for land. Passing by people traveling through entire states and trail towns, making their way on the epic journey from Maine to Georgia. I makes me sick to know that our Maisy has had her last hike through the woods, her last romp through the chilly mountain streams and tried her best at spooking the wild ponies ("Stupid horse!") This place has been a small paradise for our family for over a decade. We have been lucky enough to share it with so many people who are close to our hearts, Grandpa Routh and Grandma Thelma, the Little Browns, Milton and Jessica, the Springs, the Carters, Ildar and Patrick, and countless others. We have been blessed to find a place that brings to life so much of the beauty, tranquility and community God has given us on Earth. We have been fortunate to be able to call it a second home.
Tuesday, February 16
nom nom GROM.
Currently in quite a frustrating position where the internet at my apartment exists but is the slowest, most unreliable connection ever. Shouldn't really complain considering that I have internet even though it is a little crappy, but when the Skype connection fails every 4 or 5 seconds for 2 hours, I am not a happy camper. So now, in the comfort of the computer lab, I will share my past adventures in Italia.
This weekend, I encountered the magic and glamour that is Carnevale in Venezia. There are a wave of adjectives that come to mind when I reflect on Saturday and Sunday: exciting, stressful, overwhelming beauty, crowded, gracefulness, patience, bustling, rude, carefree, caught up, frightening, confusing, jubilance, tranquility, whimsical, innocent, colorful, tiring, exhausting, DONE.
Allow me to ellaborate. We boarded the bus around 6am from Piazza d'Ognissanti, as always, I tend to forget that not everyone is excited at 6am to board a bus for 4 hours... After a long, cramped trip, we boarded a boat to ride into Venice. Venice is a completely pedestrian city that only uses water taxis, water buses, and gondolas to get to and from different parts of the city. There's something very unique about police officers who direct human traffic instead of vehicle traffic and after almost getting run down in Florence, a couple days without cars was pretty nice. Arriving in Venice was quite startling considering the city was packed to maximum capacity. Thousands upon thousands of people navigating a group of sinking inlands, held together by bridges with canals everywhere (yes, people have fallen in them...) I consider it a major accomplishment that I did not join that category of people. It was very frustrating to be hustled through the streets, trying to follow a guided tour but being smashed so close to people that movement was not an option. I would like to say that our group of roomies did not lose anyone the entire trip, masterful. I wish I could say that I gained some culture and history of Venice from the tour, but at that point, I was so distracted and spced out, I only remember a few points: If you wanted to attack Venitians, poison the water supply. They used to have special guards whose only job was to guard the wells and make sure families only got their exact ration per day. Also, a really rich family built a tower on the backside of their palace in the Renaissance style with short, long steps because the guy who owned it prefered to trot up the 7 story tower on his horse. Also, they didn't really know what they were doing, so all of the steps and arches are just a wee bit off. I felt a little bad for the tour guide, most people were too preoccupied with where to eat/pee and did not hear anything she had to say. We worked on finding a place to eat next, probably the most frustrating experience in Venice. Everywhere was overcrowded with rude servers and no public restroom, awesome. Jess and I really wanted to eat in the fish market but the cold, damp air combined with the walking tour and crowds made standing outside to eat a little undesirable. However, I am still kicking myself that I did not try the freshly fried medley of fresh seafood in the outdoor market. If I go back to Venice, I would not make that mistake again! Anyway, eating frustration aside, Carnevale was one of the most interesting events I've experienced so far. The streets are filled with people, especially couples, dressed in ancient dresses and suits, hair covered, and wearing masks covering most, if not all of their faces. It is a tradition of secrecy and intrigue, the masks and costumes were used to hide one's identity from the community and commit acts for which you desired secrecy. Many people add an incredible amount of creativity into the tradition by drawing inspiration from nature and other subjects. The people in costumes are graceful and seem to float through the masses of people, untouched but crowded with photo takers and people posing for opportunistic snapshots. They rarely speak and are coy with one another, putting on an act for the onlookers. We spent the afternoon wandering through the crowded streets and getting lost between the ancient buildings. At some point during the afternoon, I found my mask for Saturday night. I wanted something unique, specifically white, gold, and black color scheme (hey Appalachian!) Found this great mask with a funky flair that I absolutely love love love. It will be a part of my decor in my house when I'm all grown up. Anyway, we went off the island to check into the hotel, got freshened up, had a make-up lesson for day to night looks with momma Nicole and then hit the train station to travel back to Venezia! After an interesting dinner with a rude waiter *no tip for you!, Shrimp Risotto, a variety of pizza, and tons of group photos, we started navigating our way through the streets with masks on, searching for the massive crowds of overfriendly, drunken people of all ages. We found them. We discovered the tastebud symphony that is Bellini and walked through the streets chatting with random groups of Italians, snapping photos, and shouting into the night.
The next morning, we stole a variety of items from the continental breakfast at the hotel to attempt to save money and bring our lunch along with us. We departed for Murano and watched Venetian glass makers create a cat, pretty cool but rushed. We walked through the overpriced shop attached to the workshop and I took photos of all of the glass I wish I could buy. Then we boarded another boat to Burano for cookies, lace, and technicolor houses. All of the houses on this island are different bright colors and you must obtain special permission to have the color of your house changed. Legend has it, the houses were different colors so the sailors could find their correct house with their woman even in the thickest fog. We stopped with enough time to see lace made in the area, eat and buy some yummy cookies from the island and catch a masked woman dressed as Marie Antoinette texting on her phone. After another short trip to Venice and pushing through crowds to find a bathroom and panino, we boarded the boat, and then the bus to return to Florence. Then everyone in Montebello got on Skype.
I am exhausted, but that is my Venetian weekend in a nutshell. One giant nutshell.
This weekend, I encountered the magic and glamour that is Carnevale in Venezia. There are a wave of adjectives that come to mind when I reflect on Saturday and Sunday: exciting, stressful, overwhelming beauty, crowded, gracefulness, patience, bustling, rude, carefree, caught up, frightening, confusing, jubilance, tranquility, whimsical, innocent, colorful, tiring, exhausting, DONE.
Allow me to ellaborate. We boarded the bus around 6am from Piazza d'Ognissanti, as always, I tend to forget that not everyone is excited at 6am to board a bus for 4 hours... After a long, cramped trip, we boarded a boat to ride into Venice. Venice is a completely pedestrian city that only uses water taxis, water buses, and gondolas to get to and from different parts of the city. There's something very unique about police officers who direct human traffic instead of vehicle traffic and after almost getting run down in Florence, a couple days without cars was pretty nice. Arriving in Venice was quite startling considering the city was packed to maximum capacity. Thousands upon thousands of people navigating a group of sinking inlands, held together by bridges with canals everywhere (yes, people have fallen in them...) I consider it a major accomplishment that I did not join that category of people. It was very frustrating to be hustled through the streets, trying to follow a guided tour but being smashed so close to people that movement was not an option. I would like to say that our group of roomies did not lose anyone the entire trip, masterful. I wish I could say that I gained some culture and history of Venice from the tour, but at that point, I was so distracted and spced out, I only remember a few points: If you wanted to attack Venitians, poison the water supply. They used to have special guards whose only job was to guard the wells and make sure families only got their exact ration per day. Also, a really rich family built a tower on the backside of their palace in the Renaissance style with short, long steps because the guy who owned it prefered to trot up the 7 story tower on his horse. Also, they didn't really know what they were doing, so all of the steps and arches are just a wee bit off. I felt a little bad for the tour guide, most people were too preoccupied with where to eat/pee and did not hear anything she had to say. We worked on finding a place to eat next, probably the most frustrating experience in Venice. Everywhere was overcrowded with rude servers and no public restroom, awesome. Jess and I really wanted to eat in the fish market but the cold, damp air combined with the walking tour and crowds made standing outside to eat a little undesirable. However, I am still kicking myself that I did not try the freshly fried medley of fresh seafood in the outdoor market. If I go back to Venice, I would not make that mistake again! Anyway, eating frustration aside, Carnevale was one of the most interesting events I've experienced so far. The streets are filled with people, especially couples, dressed in ancient dresses and suits, hair covered, and wearing masks covering most, if not all of their faces. It is a tradition of secrecy and intrigue, the masks and costumes were used to hide one's identity from the community and commit acts for which you desired secrecy. Many people add an incredible amount of creativity into the tradition by drawing inspiration from nature and other subjects. The people in costumes are graceful and seem to float through the masses of people, untouched but crowded with photo takers and people posing for opportunistic snapshots. They rarely speak and are coy with one another, putting on an act for the onlookers. We spent the afternoon wandering through the crowded streets and getting lost between the ancient buildings. At some point during the afternoon, I found my mask for Saturday night. I wanted something unique, specifically white, gold, and black color scheme (hey Appalachian!) Found this great mask with a funky flair that I absolutely love love love. It will be a part of my decor in my house when I'm all grown up. Anyway, we went off the island to check into the hotel, got freshened up, had a make-up lesson for day to night looks with momma Nicole and then hit the train station to travel back to Venezia! After an interesting dinner with a rude waiter *no tip for you!, Shrimp Risotto, a variety of pizza, and tons of group photos, we started navigating our way through the streets with masks on, searching for the massive crowds of overfriendly, drunken people of all ages. We found them. We discovered the tastebud symphony that is Bellini and walked through the streets chatting with random groups of Italians, snapping photos, and shouting into the night.
The next morning, we stole a variety of items from the continental breakfast at the hotel to attempt to save money and bring our lunch along with us. We departed for Murano and watched Venetian glass makers create a cat, pretty cool but rushed. We walked through the overpriced shop attached to the workshop and I took photos of all of the glass I wish I could buy. Then we boarded another boat to Burano for cookies, lace, and technicolor houses. All of the houses on this island are different bright colors and you must obtain special permission to have the color of your house changed. Legend has it, the houses were different colors so the sailors could find their correct house with their woman even in the thickest fog. We stopped with enough time to see lace made in the area, eat and buy some yummy cookies from the island and catch a masked woman dressed as Marie Antoinette texting on her phone. After another short trip to Venice and pushing through crowds to find a bathroom and panino, we boarded the boat, and then the bus to return to Florence. Then everyone in Montebello got on Skype.
I am exhausted, but that is my Venetian weekend in a nutshell. One giant nutshell.
Tuesday, February 9
nutella
if I could pick one word to describe my Italian lifestyle, it would be nutella. I am currently taking a small break between classes to relax and become my caffeinated self for an intense technical photography class. I am drinking tea out of an old nutella jar (I have already gone through one 400g jar and broke down to get the 750g jar. I am eating spoonfuls out of it at the moment.). I just love nutella.
I took an experimental stroll around Mercato Centrale today between my Italian class and my History class. I found it kind of enthralling and very magical. The place is an indoor maze of butchers, panini stands, fruit and vegetable stalls, wine and olive oil mini stores and some random pasta places thrown in. The shop workers live in their own community in the Mercato, shouting and singing while peddling their goods. As you walk through the aisles the smell of fresh meat is almost overwhelming but satisfying. As a somewhat new cook, I shy away from the pieces of meat that unpleasantly resemble the animal they came from. Roosters with claws, beak, and bright read comb still intact can be a little much for an uncultured cook such as myself. Maybe after a thorough semester of cooking class and wine pairing, I will be able to walk through the market, head held high planning a menu for the obviously fresh rooster, cow muzzle, or Trippe. Well maybe not, but the friendly, light-hearted atmosphere is enough to make anyone feel Florentine.
I took an experimental stroll around Mercato Centrale today between my Italian class and my History class. I found it kind of enthralling and very magical. The place is an indoor maze of butchers, panini stands, fruit and vegetable stalls, wine and olive oil mini stores and some random pasta places thrown in. The shop workers live in their own community in the Mercato, shouting and singing while peddling their goods. As you walk through the aisles the smell of fresh meat is almost overwhelming but satisfying. As a somewhat new cook, I shy away from the pieces of meat that unpleasantly resemble the animal they came from. Roosters with claws, beak, and bright read comb still intact can be a little much for an uncultured cook such as myself. Maybe after a thorough semester of cooking class and wine pairing, I will be able to walk through the market, head held high planning a menu for the obviously fresh rooster, cow muzzle, or Trippe. Well maybe not, but the friendly, light-hearted atmosphere is enough to make anyone feel Florentine.
Monday, February 8
descending the culture shock mountain.
Certain days, like this Monday, I feel as if Italy's enchantments are wearing off. I honestly am that person who thought the culture shock honeymoon would never wear off. Now I am feeling stuck in a state of 'in-between'. I'm not sure how to navigate this part of my experience, I am so happy to be here but I am feeling kind of lonely and frustrated all at the same time. I miss be around people who just get me without explanation. I'm meeting so many new, fun people but I can't help but long for home. The funny part about that is, I don't really have a super large friend-base at home either so I sit around fantasizing about relocating a select group of people to this beautiful city I am in because I don't want to leave but I would sure love someone to know when I could use a hug. No one really talks about this stage so I figured that I would! All of these things are just things. There is no way for me to have both my friends and family from home AND this experience and right now, I DO have this experience. So we power through the rough part, try to learn as much as possible, make more friends, and maybe eat a little more chocolate to help along the way.
Did I mention the language barrier?! It's a bitch, mi scusi. So far, it's not so easy. It is true that people appreciate your attempts at speaking Italian, however, there are quite a few people who don't exercise great customer service in these situations. Buying things at cafes and bars, not so bad, usually a pretty educational and smiley experience. Buying things from stores and asking for sizes, not so warm and fuzzy. I mean it hasn't really stopped me from making some choice purchases, but I'm getting motivated to make it to Unit 4: Shopping in Rosetta Stone! Anyway, hopefully you'll be hearing more random Italian phrases from my way soon. Italian class is very helpful, I can now phrase a question: Scusi, ho una domanda...? Ask for someone's phone number: Qual e il tuo numero di telefonino? and I can ask WTF? Scusi, cosa significa ...?
So yes, I am basically fluent.
Did I mention the language barrier?! It's a bitch, mi scusi. So far, it's not so easy. It is true that people appreciate your attempts at speaking Italian, however, there are quite a few people who don't exercise great customer service in these situations. Buying things at cafes and bars, not so bad, usually a pretty educational and smiley experience. Buying things from stores and asking for sizes, not so warm and fuzzy. I mean it hasn't really stopped me from making some choice purchases, but I'm getting motivated to make it to Unit 4: Shopping in Rosetta Stone! Anyway, hopefully you'll be hearing more random Italian phrases from my way soon. Italian class is very helpful, I can now phrase a question: Scusi, ho una domanda...? Ask for someone's phone number: Qual e il tuo numero di telefonino? and I can ask WTF? Scusi, cosa significa ...?
So yes, I am basically fluent.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
