amoRoma is a palindrome. (part one)

Am currently in love with Roma. This past weekend we excursed to this big beautiful city about 4 hours south of Firenze and it was so much more amazing than I anticipated. As we entered the city, driving down the busy streets, we looked over and one by one, noticed the streets lined with orange trees, actual orange trees. This was when I realized my love for Roma. The various districts of the city are all very different and have unique characteristics that seem familiar although I’ve never been here before. A recurring theme in Italy is the anti-climatic stumble into the most incredible monuments of history. You expect them to be in some preserved, well-marked bubble when in fact, you just turn a corner and BAM! you just tripped over the Pantheon. And as you stand there, trying to picture it as the awe-inspiring, beautiful block of cement it appears as in photos, it never happens. Yes, it is beautiful and wildly interesting, but when you see these world-famous buildings how they were meant to be, functional pieces of every day life, they develop a whole different sort of magic.
On that note, what did I see? We started the weekend on walking tour and ventured through the city, stopping at the quintessential “Roman Holiday” sights. We strolled into the Piazza di Spagna (a.k.a. the Spanish Steps) and learned that this area is one of the most rich in the city and the fountain in front of the famous stairs is one of many “water fountains” in Rome – they are beautiful fountains with sculptures on the street and yet, you can drink from almost any one of them. And the water tastes phenomenal. Then we walked along through the winding streets, snapping photos here and there until we came across the Trevi Fountain. It is a beautiful giant sculpted fountain where people come from all over the world to make one of three wishes, one coin to come back to Rome, two coins to find love in Rome, and three coins to ensure marriage. According to wikipedia, about 3000 euro ($4500) are thrown into the fountain every day and it’s used to “subsidize a supermarket for Rome’s needy.” Pretty cool, Rome. Then as described above, we walked around a corner and were faced with the Pantheon. Even with the warning from our tour guide, Fabrizio, when seeing the Pantheon in person, I was startled and confused. The ancient building is in the middle of a piazza, surrounded by everyday life, Italians walk by without stopping while the rest of us stand dumbfounded, facing the real-life photo in our history books. That might not make sense unless you’ve experienced the bizarre feeling that these monuments are actually normal buildings.
After our guided walking tour, we checked into our hotel and acclimated to the culture by taking a siesta. Jessica and I went to explore the Jewish Ghetto district in Rome, a very historic and culturally rich part of the city. We walked around the streets, stopped off for a pastry and stumbled upon some ruins (again, no big deal here). We walked through the area of crumbling buildings and I thought about how little evidence of history we keep in the United States. Historic buildings are neglected and eventually torn down and replaced by something shinier. This might be part of why coming to Europe is such a beautiful experience for Americans; living and breathing history books surround us for the first time. Here is what Rick Steves (we’re tight) has to say about these ruins:

“This monumental gateway — with columns supporting a triangular pediment — was built by soon-to-be emperor Augustus. Once flanked by temples and libraries, the passageway served as a kind of cultural center. After Rome's fall, the portico housed a thriving fish market. In the eighth century, the Portico became incorporated into the Church of Sant'Angelo in Pescheria. For centuries, this Christian church was packed every Saturday with Jews — forced by decree to listen to Christian sermons.”

The two of us explored the city some more and eventually wandered back in the direction of our hotel to shower and get ready for the night. Rome is famous for Fresh Seafood Fridays. Friday is the time to get frutta di mare (seafruit a.k.a. seafood) in Rome, so of course that’s what we did! Brooke, Hattie, Jess and I were recommended to go to Gildo, a cute family ristorante in the Trastevere, the region across the river from the main Roman attractions. Upon walking in, we were greeted by the smell of a giant wood-burning stove. The best part about eating out in Italy is the relaxed atmosphere. It is expected for the table to eat, drink and talk for as long as desired. I still find it incredible to enjoy your food slowly, drink a liter of wine (shared of course), and just relax in a calm atmosphere. This usually ends in us planning to eat gelato somewhere by the end of our time in the restaurant. Not surprising, I’m sure!
After quite a bit of discouragement from our friends, Jess and I ventured out to find the Trevi Fountain at night and to toss in our coins. As we walked through the streets, encountered beautiful statues and crowds of Scottish men in kilts (yes, I’m serious. There were an obscene amount of Scots everywhere in Rome due to the International Rugby Tournament going on that weekend. Every single one was in a kilt.), I fell even more in love with Rome. Only asking for directions once, we made it to the fountain and made wishes to return to Roma. We took some posed photos and walked to in the direction of the Campo di Fiori – Flower Market during the day and giant bar-hopping outdoor square at night. Although, be careful not to stumble into the next Piazza because the French Embassy will not hesitate to call the cops if you speak above whisper. Jessica’s friend studies in Rome, so the two of us met up with her and two of her friends. The five of us consisted of Jess, Jess, Jess, Jenny and Martha, pretty great. We walked over to Trastevere and got some drinks at a few bars here and there. We visited the oldest bar in Rome, I got gelato and it was delicious. The Trastevere is an interesting area full of young and older people a like, especially at night; hanging out in small groups, flooding out of bars to take smoke breaks, and wandering through the small characteristic bars that litter the streets. After wandering to and fro, Jess and I called it a night and recapped how beautiful, funky, and cool Rome is.